BRINGING THE JOY
WINE JOURNALING with MARIO - selecting the new by the glass list for Bedales
DIPWSET | WINE EDUCATOR | WINE DIRECTOR BEDALESWINES & BOBS LOSBTER
The by the glass list is the tonal center of a wine bar offering, it’s the timbre of its voice.
Composing a new by the glass list is invigorating and is one of the most exciting parts of what I do for living: assembling stories, grapes, countries, and villages as an invitation to enjoy the diversity of the wine world. Behind the negotiations and the effort to offer stylistic variety at the right price there is the excitement of the untasted and the triumph of the change. Your favourites become old favourites and staying still is not an option.
Our regulars know it well, they have all lost something on the way, but hey, there is no other road to the joy of a new crush!
It is not for me to describe the peaking desire for lively encounters, connection, social proximity (let’s focus on the positives :)) that is in the air, but those joining forces stressed on how important it was for the new list to be inspiring and energetic; to emphasize the social strength that good wines have.
With every rep wanting to show something that they were excited about, selecting the final labels was an easy task, while leaving some truly delicious wine outside was hard.
I am sure that in one way or another the motto of the decluttering guru Marie Condo is not new to your ears, and we have all learned to apply (or tried to do so) her “Does it spark joy?” to various aspects of our life, wine buying included.
Of all the wines tasted and selected, the ones below did it for me, they sparked joy, and it is thanks to those joyful wines that that feeling of pleasure and satisfaction called pride gets so strongly revived when at Bedales of Borough.
ARTIFICE . VIDUENOS BLANCO 2018 . TENERIFE . SPAIN
LISTAN BLANCO . ALBILLO . GUAL . MARMAJUELO
Borja Perez has developed a reputation as one of the best viticulturists in the Canaries. Situated in the richly biodiverse DO appellation Ycoden-Daute-Isora in Tenerife’s northwest, the volcanic, maritime vineyards here range from low coastal elevations to around 800m on average, with the most extreme sites climbing as high as 1,400m. Proximity to the Atlantic and its constant cooling winds and natural humidity conspire to produce a very exciting, yet challenging, climate for wine production.
This is a true volcanic wine at its best. Following a short period on the skins the wine is aged in a combination of used barrels and concrete. Artifice is powerful and balanced, expressing generous fruit alongside savory and mineral notes.
DOMAINE FOIVOS . ROBOLA OF KEFALONIA 2020 . KEFALONIA . GREECE
ROBOLA
The Foivos winery evolved from the historic Mantzavino winery, one of the oldest in Greece. The winery was bought in 1996, and in 1999 Theodoros Orkopoulos produced his first vintages. The winery specializes in rare Greek varieties. The grapes are farmed organically and biodynamically, and Foivos also explores alternative winemaking practices such as fermentation in Amphora and ageing under water. This Robola is a terroir-driven wine and considering that many people believe Kefalonia to be the next Santorini, a one not to miss.
MOULIN DE GASSAC . VIN DE PAYS DE L’HERAULT 2020 . LANGUEDOC . FRANCE
CHARDONNAY . VIOGNIER
Appreciated in more than 70 countries, the Moulin de Gassac Selection expresses a range of enjoyable wines characterized by elegance and freshness. A beautifully refined expression of the Languedoc’s generous character presented by one of the best wineries of France. Floral, delicate charming and inviting.
INCAYAL . LA CUEVA 2021 . COLCHAGUA . CHILE
PAIS . CARIGNAN
Pais is a red grape variety of great historical importance. It was the first Vitis vinifera grape variety to be exported from the Old World to the New World in the 16th Century. In this take, blended with Carignan it offers comforting warmth and charming fruit. LA Cueva was born as a collaboration between Les Caves de Pyrène and winemaker Luca Hodgkinson with the goal of making an organically grown (but uncertified) red from old vines and vinified with natural yeasts. We like it very much, for its deliciously raw character.
SARA PEREZ & RENÉ BARBIER . DIDO TINTO LA UNIVERSAL . MONTSANT 2019 . CATALONIA . SPAIN
GARNACHA . CABERNET SAUVIGNON . MERLOT . SYRAH
From one of our favorite producers, the Tinto comes from a small plot on decomposed granite soils. Produced with whole clusters and aged 40% in old wooden casks and 60% in concrete and clay amphora so to preserve fresh fruit characteristics. Ripe, spicy but attractive and wholesome red and black fruit with some edgy tannins and a seam of acidity running throughout. Superb!
